A frustrated dancer

My limbs are not working today. Even as I am typing this, I can feel the lactic acid hardening in my joints. And it H.U.R.T.S.

And the reason why it is hurting is because last night I went climbing with Wombat and I fell off almost every route I climbed. And the reason why I fell off is because I forgot to bring my brains to the climb gym and I was just using sheer brutal strength.

Now contrary to popular beliefs, rock climbing is not about exerting brutal strength against gravity. When you watch a very good climber climb or boulder, they always appear to be dancing on the rocks. With calculated agile movements, their style is graceful and looks absolutely effortless. Like a vertical gymnast.

It is all about balance, flexibility, control and most of all - it's all mental.

What do you mean mental?

Whether you are a good or crap climber depends on your climbing technique. Whether you have good techniques or not, depends on whether you think before you climb.

What are the things you need to think about when climbing?

Well, it's not just about getting from Point A to Point B - it is how to do so with the most efficient use of resources, external (the rock) and internal (your body). Examples of things to think about:

Where do you place your hands and feet?
How positive are your hand/foot holds?
How much strength do you use?
Where is your centre of gravity if I execute this move?
How do you shift your weight to stay in balance?
How do you reposition yourself if you are unable to reach a hold?
When do you rest and how long for?
Are you in position for the next move from here to there?

Theoretically, every climber knows they need to think through every move they make. However practically, climbing techniques are developed sub-consciously. When you have climbed long and hard enough, it will come naturally to you.

The problem is, my style is still pretty much hare-brained powering through, fearless lunges and gigantic leaps of faith. I do not fear falling (my poor, poor belayers) but I really just fear not reaching the top. These big biceps and trap muscles are clearly results of not thinking.

This rock dancer looks like she can dance, but can she really?

I must remember Phua Chu Kang's quote for my next climb: "Use your blains! Use your blains!"